Bike Trip

Sunday, June 25, 2006

I have been in Dakar right at 41 days now and up until this morning, I had yet to touch my bike. When I found out I would be getting a bike when I got to Senegal, I was quite excited, not that I already was. It is kinda like going to something just because you get a t-shirt out of it, but totally different.

Here in Dakar, there have been two contributing factors that have forced me to keep my bike locked up. First, I broke my hand. I had a good day and a few hours in the city before breaking it, so I suppose I wasn’t too eager to ride it once I got here. Once the cast was on, there was no way of riding without training wheels. The other factor is Dakar itself. Basically what it came down to was that I didn’t want to die biking to work. Fortunately, I work at a hospital, so if I did happen to get in an accident on the way, I still could make it to my place of work. Dakar, being a huge city, there are a lot of cars, pot-holes, trucks, sand, buses, and horse drawn carriages to contend with on every road. I’m not always the smartest when it comes to my personal safety, but the roads can look pretty scary here…except Sunday mornings.

On Sunday mornings, most things are closed and people nap all day. The younger generation is just making it home around 5 or 6 am from the club. As a result, people have little reason to hit the streets on Sunday mornings.

As a result, due to the fact that my hand had been feeling better (that is until I woke up in agonizing pain as the rods were shifting early Sunday morning), I really wanted to see some more of Dakar, and I wanted to ride my bike, I decided that this morning would be the day to knock the cobwebs off the Trek. Saturday evening, I mapped out my route, turned down a request to go clubbing only because I left my dancing shoes back in the States, set my alarm clock, and went to bed at a reasonable hour.

Despite waking up a few times throughout the night because of my hand, I got out of bed around 6:15 and hit the road at 6:45. The plan wasn’t to really travel into the heart of the city, but in a sense, do a big loop around the airport, which covers the northwestern portion of the city and fairly near my house.

While, I’m sure nobody cares about the details of the ride because I wouldn’t really either, I’m going to type them out anyways. I started from my house and got on the Route de Yoff. I passed Stade Leopold Sedar Senghor and traveled until I got to Pont du CICES/Foire. I got onto the Voie de Degagement (VDN) until the Place de l’OMVS. Basically, up until this point, I traveled the exact same route I travel going to the hospital everyday. At the Place, I headed back north on Avenue Cheikh Anta Diop. Unlike the highway styled VDN and Route de Yoff, this road is more of a typical two-lane city street. Unlike the highway styled VDN and Route de Yoff, this road is more of a typical two-lane city street. I went through the Mermoz, Ouakam and Les Mamelles districts before hitting the large hill/small mountain by the lighthouse. After this point, I was a little concerned because I was unsure of exactly where I needed to make turns and what not. Just because it is easy to see on paper (map), doesn’t mean it is necessarily easy to come across in reality here. I was getting close to the area that I really wanted to see…Les Almadies. This is where Club Med and Le Meridien are. Because of the fact that I missed veering to the left (I still don’t remember seeing the street), I didn’t see any of Club Med, but did see Le Meridien. It is supposed to be the nicest hotel in all of Senegal and it wouldn’t surprise me if that were the truth. It was absolutely amazing. Situated on a massive compound, I believe it has one or two golf courses, which are nearly non-existent in these necks of the woods. I realized my navigational error soon after passing Le Meridien when I kinda came to a dead end/dirt road. I decided to turn around, but was alittle disappointed that I didn’t get a chance to see Club Med. After Almadies, I went through Ngor, passed by the airport entrance and then got back on the a little more congested Route de Yoff, before making it back home around 8:30. In the end, I managed to go about 40 K. It was a nice Sunday stroll.

(If you have made it up to this point in the read, I congratulate you)

It was kinda weird getting back into Patte D’Oie…kinda surreal like. I was here on my new red Trek mountain bike, helmet, cut off t-shirt, shorts, sunglasses, bandana and definitely looked like I didn’t belong there. I can only imagine what those who saw me were thinking…”Who the hell is this kid…f’n Toubab...is he lost.” Honestly, I questioned it myself…another reason not to bust the bike and spandex out everyday.

In the end, my bike trip was fairly successful. I was planning to take pictures and even brought my camera, but ended up not taking any. I feel that by biking it is the easiest and best yet least feasible way to get around and see Dakar. Hopefully, I can do some more Sunday rides in the future to get a better feel of the city and its surrounding areas.

Pictures of Patte DOie

Here are some pictures I took of my neighborhood the other night. Those in the pictures are the gardener and my brothers. Also, there is a picture from swearing in. Hope everyone is doing well.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?Uc=7cwno9h.vhnjdsd&Uy=-7d58lo&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0&mode=fromshare&conn_speed=1

World Cup

Thursday, June 22, 2006

Everybody thinks and says how much Africans love football, but I don’t think people really understand this. In, the mornings, I will be going to work and there will be organized games going on. In the afternoon and evenings, every alley has a pack of kids playing pick in pick-up games. These pick up games aren’t played on grass fields with official sized goals, but in sand streets with cinder blocks marking the goals. None of the kids are wearing the newest Nikes or shin guards, that would make any soccer mom flip out, but playing in sandals or barefoot. Their skill is phenomenal. All have the passion to be the best.

I wish I could compare this desire to football to a sport in the States, but it isn’t possible. Sure kids play basketball, baseball, football (American), and soccer in the States, but it is far from the same capacity as seen here. I think the very broad, general explanation for this is that American culture is far different from here.

While I feel that I should, in order to fill my day, I haven’t really been watching too much of the World Cup here. I must be the oddball, because everywhere I go, people are huddled in front of tiny TVs and radios watching and listening to the games. I would almost compare it to the focus on the NCAA Men’s Basketball Tournament, but up it a notch or two.

With my newfound determination to do more than just work, I decided to watch the U.S – Ghana World Cup match. All the games are broadcast live for the most part here in Senegal on the national network and on the radio. Also, this national network is the only channel most people get. The US – Ghana match was at 2 pm today.

I knew that I wanted to watch the game at a bar, so after work, I went on a bar hunt. Bars, unlike in the States (or at least Athens for that matter), are a little harder to come by. The first bar, which is near the hospital had all its chairs up, so instead of investigating more, I left and headed to Patte D’Oie (my neighborhood). I got on the bus and decided to experiment with a different route, which I don’t recommend. Needless to say, I did a little walking. Finally, I made it to my area of town right around 2 pm. The first bar I want to, which is the one I really wanted to check out, was closed. I walked down the street to the nightclub, where I watched another match, and it was closed. By this point, I was hot and sweaty and was about to give up on the World Cup and a cold beer. I did a little thinking and decided to jump on a car rapide and head to Libertie VI as my last option. Across from the Peace Corps regional house, there is a bar that I could only hope was open.

At 2:30, I made it and it was open. I was nearly at a crawl when I entered the door. Not to my surprise, I was the only American in there. Because Senegal didn’t make the World Cup, Senegalese I believe cheer for any African team. It is really a cool thing to see. This is weird to me because if the US wasn’t in it, would Americans be cheering for Canada (didn’t qualify) or Mexico. Actually, I don’t know many Americans that would really care.

The game went on and it wasn’t looking good for the Americans. I shared in some laughs with the handful of others (more middle aged) there to watch the game. By the end of it, they almost had me cheering for Ghana. In cases like this, where the environment isn’t hostile and you are obviously different, it really is a cool feeling.

Now that I look back at it, it was nice to go and relax, have a beer or two, and be welcomed by those there. It is something that I haven’t really done in the big city yet. Also, I’m trying to recall in my 23, almost 24 years of life, if I’ve ever gone to a bar by myself, I don’t think I have, although, I came close in the mountains a few times. I can just see my mom now reading this and saying, “He did what…he went to a bar by himself…I’m worried about him.” That is far from how it is.

The Med Kit

In Senegal, with volunteers in the smallest of villages to the largest city, access to medical supplies and doctors may not always be easy. As a result, healthcare starts with the volunteer and is a topic not taken lightly by Peace Corps.

Through training sessions, medical issues were discussed in detail as to how to combat them. While necessary measures are taught, injury and sickness can’t always be prevented. As a result, Peace Corps vaccinates volunteers for an array of things and provides us with a variety of medical supplies and medications. With everything they have given us, I’ve almost come to the conclusion that I am protected against everything but myself. If there is something we need or run out of, we are able to get it through Peace Corps. Also, the Peace Corps Medical Staff is just a phone call away.

I wanted to show everyone, what exactly Peace Corps provided us with. I don’t think I forgot anything, but who knows…

VACCINATIONS:
1. Yellow Fever
2. Measles, Mumps, and Rubella (MMR)
3. Polio (IPV)
4. Diphtheria-Tetnus (Td)
5. Rabies
6. Meningococcal Meningitis
7. Hepatitis A
8. Hepatitis B
9. Typhoid (Vi-capsular Polysaccharide vaccine)
10. Influenza vaccine

**

MEDICAL KIT:

General Supplies:
Ace Bandage
Adhesive Strips
Adhesive Tape (waterproof)
Antibiotic Ointment
Antifungal Cream
Aquatabs (Water Purification Tablets)
Band-Aids
Bleach Container
Condoms
Dental Floss
Electrol Plus (Dehydration Tablets)
Emergency Eye Wash
Gauze Pads
Hibiclens (Antiseptic/Antimicrobial Skin Cleanser)
Hydrocortisone Anti-Itch Cream
Latex Gloves
Lip Balm
Mosquito Repellent
Scissors
Sun block
Thermometer (one use)
Thermometer (reusable)
Tweezers
Whistle

Basic Medicines:
Antacid Tablets
Aspirin
Benadryl Allergy
Cough Drops (Cherry)
Ibuprofen
Multi Purpose Vitamins
Pepto Bismol
Sepasoothe (Throat Lozenges)
Sudanyl (Nasal and Sinus Decongestant)

Over-The-Counter Drugs (Require Approval):
Erythromycin 250mg (Bacterial and skin infections)
Cipro (ANTHRAX and bacterial/viral diarrheas)
Malarone (Malaria Treatment)
Tamiflu (Bird flu precaution)
Mephaquin (Weekly Malarial Propholaxis)

Other Stuff (Mail to Dakar for results):
MIF Procedure Kit
Malaria Test Kit

Things I have requested/reordered:
Bandaids
Hydrogen Peroxide
Neosporine
Poudre Salvatis (like gold bond)
Ibuprofen (600 mg)

Pictures of Hopital Fann Garden

Here are a few pictures taken a few weks ago of the Hopital Fann Garden that I have just been able to get up today:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?Uc=7cwno9h.ljtni6d&Uy=q9wltx&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0&mode=fromshare&conn_speed=1

Picture from Swearing In

The Real Thing...

Tuesday, June 20, 2006

Growing up, I have always been a Coke person. Whether it was collecting Coke stuff, drinking it, or mixing it with Jim Beam on Gamedays, I’ve always preferred it over Pepsi. Prior to leaving, many said that the Peace Corps would make me a different person (something that I didn’t/don’t agree entirely with), but I’m still a Coke person.

In a sense, drink choices are limited here. Water from the purifier gets old after awhile, drink mixes are good but not always accessible, beer can be a pain in the ass to get and deal with, but a cold Coke can surprisingly be found nearly everywhere in Dakar. I don’t think this a good thing for myself.

At times, I feel like my habit is turning into the one my freshman year roommate had. I don’t think that is a good thing. While it probably will not happen, I feel that my Coke intake may need to decrease. If not, there are going to be a couple of boutique owners that are going to be living quite nicely by the time I leave Senegal.

But the old slogan “Have a Coke, Have a Smile,” is quite a true one.

Change In Routine...

Monday, June 19, 2006

A little over a month into my two years here in Dakar, I realized this past weekend that I must change the way I do things in order to keep my sanity and survive the next two years.

The past month has been a time of adjustment from the sheltered and structured life in Thies to that of being alone in the big city. This adjustment has been a lot tougher then I anticipated (I don’t know how much breaking my hand really affected this. There were some good and exciting aspects about it, but also so negative aspects too). The frustrations of Dakar, loneliness, inability to communicate at times, being a toubab, etc, can catch up with you at the end of the day. Looking back at the past 35 days, all I feel like I have done is wake up, go to the hospital, and come home.

From my prospective, there is only one remedy, move from taking baby steps to big boy steps and change the structure of my day. As I said, all I feel like I do is go to work. While this is true, I am typically home sometime before lunch at 3 pm, so there is a lot of time left in my day.

So, in order to change my routine and keep my sanity, my goal is to spending less time in my little house by exploring Dakar, exercising (atleast when the rods get taken out of my hand), eventually getting a Wolof tutor, and getting out of Dakar some. In a sense, it is kind of like a New Year’s Resolution.

I started yesterday, by waking up early before it got too hot, taking a bus to the hospital (because I know how to get there without getting lost), and walking/running home. The hospital and my house are approximately 8 miles apart. The purpose of this wasn’t to run or walk, but to keep me out of the house and see some of Dakar. I ended up getting home before 11 am I believe, but it was a good way for me to clear my head, relax, and work up a sweat. Also, in the process, I found a go karting amusement park that I had been in search of. Hopefully, there will be a future entry about this place.

Today, I was equally as successful. The agenda for the day included work, the pool, and a trip to the bank. I worked till around 12:30, pulling weeds for most of it. Knowing I wasn’t going straight home, I went to my buddy at the boutique in front of the hospital and asked him where I find maffe. I think I have explained it before, but it is white rice covered with a peanut sauce with chunks of beef in it. My buddy Mike, back in the States I remember emailed me a recipe of this stuff that his mom came across (because of its reference to Senegal) and I immediately discarded it, thinking that it would be disgusting. It turns out, it is my favorite dish here. So, I was pointed in the direction of a tent that had maffe, so I went.

At the tent, the lady there got a good kick out of the fact that some white kid was so enthusiastic about wanting maffe and spoke a little Wolof. While it may not be French, the language of love, I gave here a wink, hoping she would put a little more in my bowl. I ate it pretty quickly and paid the 400 CFA (80 cents) that it cost.

After that, I was headed towards Club Atlantique (American Club) to enjoy some time by the pool. Because I was unsure of the busses going that way and its somewhat (used loosely) to the hospital, I decided to walk. And I had the time. On the way, I was hoping to pass one of Dakar’s larger bookstores so I could check it out, but I ended up turning off that road before I got there. While I didn’t pass the bookstore, I did come across a small stand of used polo shirts, and I saw a red one for Junkyard Restaurant with a bulldog on it. I had to turn back around to get a second look. I don’t know where it is in the States, probably somewhere in Georgia, but I got a smile from it. I should have bought it.

I ended up making it to the pool around 1:30 and no one was by the pool. A few people were in the bar watching the World Cup, but the pool was empty and quite nice. They had an April 2006 copy of Outside magazine, so I sat in the pool reading it. In the process, I sent some texts to a few other volunteers reminding them that my village had a pool.

By 2:45, I suppose school had gotten out, and my relaxation time was over. A handful of French and American kids showed up with their moms, so I decided to head out around 3. It wasn’t a problem because I needed to go to the bank and I didn’t want to get too tan in one day, since I have two years of uninterrupted pool/beach time. Some of yall would be proud of me because I put sun screen on for the first time in I don’t know how many years. I just put it on my face because my nose is constantly peeling, but it is a start I suppose.

I left the pool and decided to walk to the bank. I didn’t know exactly how far it was, but decided that jumping on a car rapide would be a waste of 10 cents. At 3:38, I made it to Credit Agricole, my bank, only to see the sign saying that they close at 3:30. I probably should have taken a car rapide. While I’m pretty much out of money, I figure I can go tomorrow, especially since I know the operating hours now.

Some may get frustrated at realizing that the bank had closed 8 minutes before they got there, but today, it didn’t faze me. As a result, I figured, I might as well just keep walking home. After coming across a few dead animals, two motorcades (governmental official and money), and some kids who thought I was French, I made it home around 4:30 or so, sweaty, tired, and a little sore. Realizing that I had just walked nearly the same 8 miles twice in two days made me smile.

Hopefully, the months to come will only be easier and tomorrow will be as eventful.

Hanging Out With The Girls

Saturday, June 17, 2006

For the past week or so, I’ve been meaning to go down to Sahm (area in Dakar), where my Thies host sisters live. I meant to go during the week so I could see my dad, but logistics can be difficult here. Yesterday, I got a call from one of my sisters.

Normally, I have gone to the hospital on Saturdays, more to pass time than anything, but today, I didn’t. Because of this, it was feasible to head in that direction to Sahm and see my sisters. I have made it no secret that I enjoyed the company of my Thies family, so it was nice to see my sisters. It was the first time since leaving Thies that I had seen on of them.

Where they stay in Dakar is far different then where I live here, but it seems very homey, as did the house in Thies. Every time I have been there, I have felt at ease. Today was no different.

Today, I hung out with my sisters for about an hour and a half or so. In that span, I saw a few others that I had met before. Also, because I was the only guy in the room (the ratio was 1:4 at one time) there was a lot of girl talk going on. It really made no difference though because I had little clue as to what they were saying.

Also, I got to watch hair extensions get put in. It was cool. I’ve seen a lot of used hair extensions lying in the dirt on some of my walks here, but I had yet to see new ones being put in. It amazes me how hair extensions can be put in with ease, yet my hair can be butchered so badly at the barber. During the course of this, I wished I had brought my Barbie along so we could style her hair and play dress up…maybe next time.

Prices

One thing I wanted to do was provide you with the costs of things here in Dakar. Being in Dakar, I am able to find many typically Western goods at places like Score and other grocery stores. The prices here are typically a little high for my income, but it is a nice place to go to find just about anything without haggling. Gas stations, like Score, are very Western and have a variety of things, but can be costly as well. Another place I go are boutiques. They are pretty much on every street corner and are nice places to go for a snack. There are a couple that I’m a regular at. Because there hasn’t been much that I’ve needed from a market and I am scared in going, I don’t know the prices for things there. Because of this, I will probably get ripped off on my first visit.

The list includes just about everything I have bought here. I really haven’t bought a whole lot . I had planned to put the costs of the prescription drugs I was on for my hand on here, but threw the boxes away and forgot. Needless to say, they were much cheaper than in the States. Consider your tax dollars hard at work. Beer is like any where else and has a wide range and typically requires a deposit for the bottle if you take for home. Also, I’m not sure the exact exchange rate, but I believe it is about $1 to 500 FCFA.

Dairy – Yogo Glace Fraise [10 pack] (Score)
1,000
Dairy – Vitalait Instant Fraise [10 pack] (Score)
1,100
Drink – Bonjus Fruit Juice – Variety of Flavors [296 ml]
200
Drink – Coca Cola [.5 litre plastic bottle]
300
Drink – Coca Cola [1.5 litre plastic bottle]
600
Drink – Foster’s Clark Mix [1 pack – enough for a Nalgene] (Boutique)
200
Drink – John Wood Blended Whisky [70 cl]
1,425
Food – Biskrem [12 pack] (Boutique)
250
Food – Biskrem [4 pack] (Boutique)
100
Food – Croissant
250
Food – Local Meal from side of road (ex. cheb u gen, maffe, super kanja)
350 (est)
Food - Pringles – Texas Barbaque Sauce (Score…but can find at gas stations)
1,390
General - Cell Phone – Motorola C118 (nothing fancy)
30,000
General - Map – Dakar 1/16,000 (Score)
4,400
General - Le 221: Musiques, Arts, Sports, Loisirs (Monthly what’s happening magazine)
500
General – National Geographic – English Ed (Score)
4,350
Health & Beauty - Nivea for Men Double Action Cleaning Gel [150 ml] (Score)
4,450
Health & Beauty – OE Natural Almond Extract Soap [3 pack] (Score)
990
Household – Bayer Mosquito Coils [10 pack] {Score)
260
Household – Simple Wooden Bed Frame (Market)
30,000
Household - Bleach – La Croix [1 litre]
450
Household – Plastic Chairs [2] (Market)
10,000
Household – ViVair Fresh 2 in 1 – Ocean Breeze (Score)
1,290
Rent – House (Monthly)
45,000
Rent – Food, Electricity, Water (Monthly)
45,000
Transportation – Car Rapide/Alhum (may have to take a couple to get to destination)
50 – 125
Transportation – Taxi
1,000 – 3,000

Long Walks On The.....

Monday, June 12, 2006

I suppose I have come to figure out a solution to my transportation dilemma here in Dakar. For the most part, I feel as I am doing good in maneuvering around town on public transportation, but there are still many routes I have not come close to mastering, and other routes I have yet to discover their existence. For those routes that I am unsure of, the solution to the problem has been to walk. Sometimes, this solution has come in handy after riding a mode of transportation for an hour or two, only to realize I: missed my stop, rode the wrong bus, or had no clue what happened.

When I came up with this piece after walking home from the center for Micro-Gardening today, I was quite intrigued to look at my handy map of Dakar to figure out some of these distances. I couldn’t tell you how far my walk today was because the Center was off the map. On a side note, my walk home today was more out of curiosity then anything.

While the first time I walked many of these routes, it was typically out of frustration, but now, I kinda like to do it. While I didn’t have the aid of mapquest, here are the estimated lengths (in kilometers) of some of my walks:

Hopital Fann to Peace Corps Office – 4.5 K
Peace Corps Office to Place de France – 2.5 K
House to Regional House – 3.25 k (typically don’t walk this)

If I could walk or even bike to work or downtown, I would, but neither are feasible, for different reasons. Regardless, you have to realize that Dakar is like any other major city in the fact that it encompasses a large space, which for some reason, some don’t realize. Living in the very northern edge of the city has made learning the best, fastest (relative), and cheapest modes of transportation important as well as the actual layout of the city.

My Girlfriend And Our Tickle Fights

Sunday, June 11, 2006

I don’t know what it is, but Sunday just must be the day out of the week that odd things happen to me here. Last week, there was the beach incident; this week was a tickle episode.

I had just gotten onto the Car Rapide, heading home from Libertie VI, when this old lady (probably in sixties and she was more woman than lady) reached over and tickled my side. I say tickle because I am the writer of this piece. Others may have called it a poke, touch, sexual harassment, punch, but, I’m sticking with a tickle, although, I didn’t laugh. She would have lost if I were in the mood for a tickle fight.

I didn’t see it coming, so I was fairly startled. I actually jumped and probably screeched like her little granddaughter. I have no clue what she was doing. I don’t know if she wanted to touch me or what. I mean, getting tickled by old women may be on my top ten list of things that I want to happen in a day, but it definitely isn’t the number one thing.

I figured that the only thing I could do was brush it off and continue on my journey. I mean, this is what happens sometimes on a 15 cent ride home. If you want to be involved in something interesting happening to you, it is typically a good investment.

Well, my lady friend (at this point, I suppose I could say we were dating and I’d reached second base and on my way to third without having to say a word) decided to start chatting with me. The guy sitting across from me and beside her was laughing in sympathy for me. I mean, there isn’t anything funnier than to laugh at the little foreign kid and his sixty year old lover converse in a packed car rapide.

So, what did we talk about? As with any relationship I’ve been in, I asked no questions and did none of the talking. She did ask me about 5 or 6 times how old I was. I should have told her a lot younger than 23, but I am unsure what the legal age of consent is here. She also asked me if I had a sister…I don’t know why. Ash, if you get a postcard in the mail from someone claiming to be your sister-in-law, please return to sender. Soon after our conversation started, her friends jumped into the conversation too. I think they approved of our relationship. At this point, I could see our love blossoming, atleast for the next stop or two. I was really hoping a Shakira or Ryan Cabrera song would come on the radio, but most car rapides have little to no electronic devices.

Well, my stop finally came as sweat was dripping down my forehead. Unfortunately, I decided she was moving alittle too fast for a sweet, innocent, southern kid like myself, so I had to break things off. She was my first girlfriend here in Senegal, so I will always remember her.

I miss her already.

Main Project: Hopital Fann

Saturday, June 10, 2006

Throughout the course of the past year and a half, I have gradually learned more about what my project is to be in Senegal. It started out as Peri/Semi – Urban Agriculture into what is now my main project at the Centre Hospitalier de Fann. Hopefully, this post will provide a better insight to what I will be working on for the next two years.

Professor Papa Salif Sow, head of infectious diseases at Hopital Fann, approached Peace Corps and the Center for Micro-gardening (CDH) with the idea to construct a vegetable garden beside the infectious diseases’ building, that would supplement the diets of the patients (the majority are HIV+), in 2004/2005. Vegetables are very rich in vitamins and nutrients. This idea became a reality in 2005 under the guidance of former Peace Corps Volunteer Steve Bolinger. Through the course of the past several months, the garden has grown tremendously.

With Steve leaving to start an NGO dedicated to replicating this idea, I was brought in as his replacement. While so much work has been done as of yet, the vision of the garden continues to expand and be more demanding. Due to this, I am hoping that I will be able to focus the majority of my energy on this project.

Over the past month, I have been learning about the garden itself. The number of vegetables currently being grown is enormous, but include (in English); cabbage, okra, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, zucchini, potatoes, turnips, radishes, various types of mint, parsley, basil, various types of beans, peanuts, beets, various peppers, carrots, and the list goes on. Also, there are several pests, which I have been learning in greater detail how to combat. With the rainy season a few months away, there will be much more to learn hands on.

Now, what is in stow for the growth of the garden. One thing that is going to try to be worked on is the meals served. With so many vegetables being grown, including non-native vegetables, the kitchen does not have expertise in many of them. Hopefully, in the near future we can expand the variety of meals and vegetables being served. Also, utilize and grow more vegetables that the patients enjoy.

Another area for expansion is in the area of medicinal plants as well as fruits. The current garden is devoted to just vegetables. This will most likely be done in a separate garden that will be developed on the grounds, but still all in the works. In addition, there are several other things surrounding the garden, that are being looked at.

Honestly, I think I have the best project out of all the volunteers. I might be biased, but I really feel that way. The passion behind the people involved with the project (2 gardeners, cook, Professor Sow, and a few others) is amazing. The idea, purpose, and vision are all something I believe in. I am hoping to create a better relationship between the garden and those that it is serving, by doing this, the rewards will be far greater. I know that this project has a lot of demands that will only continue to develop, but I’m ready to work and help continue the growth of the garden.

Ill have pictures up of it soon...the internet was messin up today

Doctor J: Minor Operation

Saturday, June 10, 2006

I don’t remember if it was Spring Break my senior year of high school or that summer at the beach, but on one of those occasions I got the nickname “Doctor J” or “The Docta”. As for why I got that nickname, I couldn’t tell you. Over the years, its usage has gradually diminished, and new nicknames have been created. Today, I feel as if I could legitimately be called a doctor. My hand doctor gave me the green light earlier this week to remove the stitches from my hand this weekend. He didn’t really say that I could do it, but I pleaded and won. My Peace Corps doctor looked at me a little oddly, but I convinced her as well. I mean, I feel as I’m a pro in the matter; removing the ten stitches in my head freshman year with a Swiss Army knife and seemed to do ok. So, hopefully the rusty knife I picked up in the street will do the trick today.

As for any other updates on my hand (I don’t think I gave them earlier this week because the news on it is starting to get more and more boring), they go as follows: Today, I remove my stitches. In about a week, I go in for another x-ray. Then, in about 4 weeks, the rods are supposed to come out in a local anesthesia procedure. After that, I couldn’t tell you.

I must say that I am looking forward to them coming out. They kind of hurt at times, especially when I sleep. I woke up in the middle of the night last night in excruciating pain. I don’t know if this is because I may knock my hand when I sleep, the blood isn’t flowing as well, or another reason, but I’ll discuss it with the real doctor when I go in a week.

BIG Screen Tetris

Thursday, June 8, 2006

The other day, I finally received a long awaited care package from Ash and Mark. They mailed it sometime in late April, but it didn’t make to Thies in time before I moved to Dakar. It was a great care package, but I don’t recommend mailing Pringles (they break and I can buy them here). While I am grateful for everything in the package, I must rave about “Big Screen Tetris”. “Big Screen Tetris” is this handheld video game that I have not been able to put down. Some people go to bed with a loved one, random person, or by themselves, but lately, I have been going to bed with my “Big Screen Tetris” and let me tell you, I haven’t been getting much sleep. I bring it to bed with me, not only to play before going to bed but when I wake up in the morning too. I don’t want to lie, I’ve brought it to the royal bathroom a few times too…I’m still working on proper technique, balance, and leg strength when it comes to squatting in the douche, but I sure have figured out how to play Tetris in there…I have even set a few high scores.

So Ash and Mark, I not only want to thank you for the care package, but for providing me with a companion and friend.

REVISITED: Packing List

Now that I have been in Senegal for three months (Thies for 2 / Dakar for 1), I felt that I should revisit my packing list (can be found in a much earlier post). Overall, I feel that I did a good job packing. Although, due to the fact that you do not know your actual site until a month or so after you get in country and probably not know the details about your living arrangement until you actually get there, it is impossible to pack perfectly. To help me, I utilized the list Peace Corps provided me with (specific to Senegal) as well as lists that I found online, compiled by current/former volunteers. So, if somebody reads this in preparation for their own Peace Corps venture, use this to provide thought, but everybody’s list is going to be different to meet their own needs. The things I am glad I brought, didn’t need to bring, and wish I had brought, are based on my living conditions in Dakar.

The one thing that I disagree with is the amount you should pack. Just about everything that I read stated that you should pack minimally, not only because you have transport it, but because some stuff you can buy when you get in country. Both points are true yet a little flawed. First, you are going to be away for 2 years...bring anything that reminds you of home…there are some long days where you need something to make you smile.
Second, I’d rather have it and not need it, then not have it and not be able to get it...you can always give it away later. Third, there are only a few times you have to carry your stuff, and most times (if not all), you have help, so pack as much as you can. Finally, buying stuff can be a hassle. I’m convinced that retail therapy, as some call it, does not exist here.

GLAD I BROUGHT:
- Chaco Sandals
They are somewhat expensive, but highly worth it. I wear mine every day. I don’t recommend playing basketball when wearing them for the first time...actually, I don’t recommend playing basketball in Senegal at all. Also, while I don’t know if you can get the discount before you leave the States, Chaco gives Peace Corps volunteers a discount. You have to email them for the form and they can only be mailed to a US address, but apparently it is a really good deal. I recommended checking it out before spending $100.
- Laptop
This was a last minute decision to bring, but I’m glad did. For me, writing has been a good outlet to relieve stress so its come in handy. Also, it allows me to type things before going to the cyber café, so I’m not wasting time when there.
- IPOD
- Books
- Bed Sheets/Blanket/Pillow
Can be risky because you don’t know what size bed you will have or get, so go with a larger size. I brought a travel pillow, but I suggest packing a good, soft, full size pillow. Also, while I brought a blanket, I added the blanket from the airplane over to my collection, which I highly recommend. Also, this stuff can be bought here, but might not be what you are used to.
- Pictures
- L.L. Bean Duffle Bags
They are heavy duty, fairly inexpensive, light, and don’t take up much space when you aren’t using them. I’ve gotten a lot of compliments on them as well
- Petzel Headlamp
- Notebooks/Index Cards/Pens
- Duck tape
Can use for anything

DIDN’T NEED TO BRING:
- Travel Hammock
I don’t really have a place to use it and the sun would destroy it fairly quickly. On a side note, another volunteer brought one (more heavy duty) and has had success…I just have no place for one here.
- Short-wave Radio
I have barely used it. I listen to my MP3s on my laptop or IPOD mostly.
- Therm-A-Rest Sleeping Pad
- Traveler’s Checks
I have found them to be a pain in the ass. This could be for several reasons, including it being my fault. I wish I had loaded the money on my debit card instead and pulled it from the ATM. Sure, you may get a small currency conversion charge and/or ATM few, but it is worth it. Also, regarding money, you don’t have to bring any, but it is nice to have a little security/back up money.

WISH I HAD BROUGHT:
- DVD Collection
Just would be nice to be able to watch a classic like Hardball before going to bed.
- IPOD Speakers
- Messenger Bag
At times, would come in handier than a back pack. For me, walking through the streets of Dakar or on the various modes of public transportation, I’m always cautiously guarding my backpack…a messenger bag is more convent in these situations.
- Another UGA Hat
Meant to pick one up in Athens just before I left, but my meal at Weaver D’s ran longer than expected. I brought one, but you can never have too many.
- Different running shoes
One of the air bubbles popped while playing basketball. Once again, I don’t recommend playing basketball in Senegal. Fortunately, I can still wear them, but not for the purpose of running.
- Better converter
I tried to find one for higher wattage products before I left but didn’t have much luck. I haven’t run into any problems yet with mine, but it gets really hot, so I only leave it plugged in for an hour or two each time…hoping it won’t be a problem later.
- Trivial Pursuit
- More T-shirts
- Electric hair clippers
I had them packed then took them out. You can buy them in Dakar; I just have to hunt them down. It makes getting a haircut a little easier and less humiliating. Apparently some of the PC girls have shaved their heads here, so this isn’t necessarily a men’s only utility.

POTENTIALLY CONSIDER (Not Needed/Wanted By Me, But Others)
- World Space
- Solar Charger/Battery

Riots

Wednesday, June 7, 2006....12:15 pm

I just left the hospital after work and riots were going on at the school next door. I dont know what they were about. Police were in riot gear, roads were blocked, and tear gas was being shot up at buildings. According to the noise, it is still going on. I will try to figure out more, but it was a crazy and I suppose somewhat dangerous situation.

Prayer Call

Tuesday, June 6, 2006

Typically, I get home from my day fairly early, due to logistics and the way I have things set up. Today was a little different and it wasn’t till around 8 pm when I got home. On the car rapide home, I saw something that was really moving to me.

It wasn’t quite dark yet, but quickly getting that way. In streets that are typically packed with people buying and selling things, I saw men lined infront of stores, with their mats, reflecting, just before the prayer call.

Senegal is a vastly Muslim country, but tonight was just something that I took in with much awe. It was unbelievable to see men who were a few minutes before hustling and bustling, now at peace, side by side, along streets that were still very busy.

It wasn’t the first time I had seen prayer here, but I think it had something to do with the environment it was in and the feeling that the time of day gave. Whether others would warrant this as a memorable experience, I don’t know, but for me, it is something I hope to remember for years to come.

Mon Ami...Mon Ami...My Friend....Aziz

Tuesday, June 6, 2006

This morning, I was supposed to have a doctor’s appt at 11 (eventually got bumped to this afternoon), so, I left my house at 8, hoping to make it to the bank before going to the Peace Corps Office. Well, the bank nor the doctor’s appt happened this morning. I spent 2 hours traveling on the bus to downtown Dakar and then around all of downtown Dakar. I blame this all on myself. See, I was standing for a good portion of the time and couldn’t see where we were (as it would have mattered), so I just kept riding. Along the way, I started to have a conversation with a guy. He asked about my wolof studies and I talked about Corps de la Paix and my project. He had never heard of Peace Corps. We talked on the bus for about 15 minutes or so. Finally, he got off (I probably should have gotten off long before). So I continue on the bus and realize where I am and that while it had been a nice bus trip, I must have missed my stop an hour into the trip. I hailed a Taxi, made it to Peace Corps, only to find out my appointment had been bumped…not a big deal.

So, I decided to haul it to the bank. It was a good walk from the Office, but not worth taking a taxi. I am walking fairly brisk, just in an attempt to not be bothered. It doesn’t usually work, but people typically don’t follow you. It gets annoying because people are shouting or grabbing you to try and get your attention. I typically just ignore it all and keep walking.

But, as I am power walking through the streets of downtown, I hear, "Mon ami…Mon ami). I ignore it, I hear this all the time, and I don’t want to buy what they are selling…I don’t even have to know what it is I keep walking and hear, "My friend….My friend" and then I hear "Aziz…Aziz." Aziz is my name here. At this point, I am baffled. I can count the number of people I kinda know in Dakar on my one good hand, and this was not one of their voices, so I kept on walking.

Finally, somebody grabbed my shoulder. Here, I’m not a fan of when somebody puts their hands on me. Typically, when it happens, I look at them, and my hands guard my pockets. Well, it turned out to be my "friend" from the bus. I suppose I have that lasting impression on people.

Unfortunately, I wasn’t in the mood to buy any of the watches he was selling, so I told him I had to go. I was going to the bank, but that wasn’t going to come out of my mouth. On my way back, I saw him again and acknowledged him. I told him I was running late, which I wasn’t, but my plan wasn’t to get my bag full of money stolen by him or anyone else, so I was in a hurry to get back to the office.

I don’t want people to get the wrong idea about my desire to talk to people and take in things, but things here are a little different here. In other areas of the city, I would, such as near the hospital I work at, but in the more touristy areas, my goal is to be in and out as quick as I can.

Hey Toubab...

Sunday, June 4, 2006

Dakar is a city with nearly two million people and almost entirely surrounded by the Atlantic. In my nearly three weeks as a resident of Dakar’s Pattie D’Oie (may be a few letters off) district, I feel as if I have seen all 2 million inhabitants, but it wasn’t until today that I actually got to go to the beach. Like every other first experience I’ve here, losing my Dakar beach virginity was just as memorable…just not necessarily great.

Sunday here is typically a day of rest…more so than in the US. It is kinda nice because the streets aren’t as crowded, at least in the morning. Usually, I have tried to stay somewhat busy on Sundays, because I have found out from my endless days in the mountains prior to coming to Senegal and some endless hours here, that the more I am doing (or at least that I am pretending to be doing) the easier it is to cope.

For some reason, this Sunday was a little different. I ended up getting out of bed around 10. I blame that on a late night of playing UNO with my brothers. Yes, I miss Friday and Saturday nights in Athens. I headed to the cyber café for an hour to catch up on some emails. I guess all that work made me tired because I came back to the house after a quick stop at the gas station, tried to read some, but ended up napping for 2 or 3 hours. I can just hear my mom now: "J…do something constructive with your day."

I wake up sweaty as I always do here around 2:30. It is the combination of having a somewhat comfortable foam mattress, Africa, and the fact that I am still waiting on my air conditioning guys to come out here. Lunch was served shortly after 3 and everyone looked as if they had just woken up…for the day.

Two of my brothers, a sister, and I decided to go to the beach. I was pretty excited. The two beaches I’ve been to in Senegal have been awesome (Pictures of them can be seen in past posts). So, I was pretty excited, minus the fact I had a cast on my hand. I didn’t know what beach we were going to, but I figured it would be a good one.

We got in a clando and headed to the beach. Once there, we each had to pay 200 CFA (40 cents) to get in. That could have been the worst investment of 40 cents I have ever made. Apparently, Sunday is not only a day to rest, but a day to go to the beach. I have never come close to seeing that many people crammed into one area. It was terrible.

The portion of beach that we paid to enter probably was probably 200 feet long and not very deep but had I’d say at least 1,000 people there. Not even Mrytle Beach is this hectic. You could not move. We finally found a place to sit but had to move a few times over the course of an hour or two.

It was absolutely nuts. There was trash and debris everywhere. I’m thankful for one or two of the vaccines now in my body. Teenagers/young adults were participating in one of Senegal’s pastimes, wrestling, causing crowds to shift and sporadic fights and arguments to break out.

There are always one or two that can ruin it for all…this was no different on this day. I think I was the only white person/toubab there at the time and some fat guy making a fool of himself comes up and says "hey toubab" and then starts speaking basic Wolof to me thinking I wouldn’t understand…but I responded back under my breath not even looking at him. They teach us to try and ignore these sort of remarks…but it can be frustrating, especially when its everyday.

I’m not going to lie, that was probably the most pissed I’ve been since I’ve been here. I don’t get upset too easily or that often, but I came close to losing it today. I didn’t show my frustration or anger, but it was burning.. It took most of the remainder of the day to collect myself.

We stayed at the beach till just before sunset. I’m sure that I will be going to Dakar’s beaches again, but hopefully I can find more relaxing ones.

The Things I Miss Most

I made this list the other day. It was initially intended to be just for me to reflect on during my time here, but, I was oddly asked on two different occasions one day what I missed most about being away from home. I thought I would share the list. Some of the items could probably include more clarification or reasoning, but for the purpose of the list, it isn’t necessary.

1. Family…including Millie and Oscar
2. Friends
3. Ease and ability to communicate and see family/friends

The rest are in no particular order:
- Driving
- Mountain Dew
- Mexican Restaurants
- UGA
- Having new music to put on the IPOD
- Steaks
- Blimpies/Jason’s Deli/Jersey Mike’s
- Miller Lite
- Convenience
- Not having to haggle for basic goods
- Cleanliness (clean streets, little pollution, etc.)
- Georgia Girls
- Weaver D’s/Bojangles
- The use of a right hand
- Grass
- Buffalo Wings
- Professional/Collegiate Sports
- Hot Showers
- Swedish Pancakes
- USA Today/Current Events
- Cookouts/Tailgating
- DVD Collection
- Febreeze
- Sweet Tea
- Margaritas
- Array of TV Shows

UPDATE: Thies Family

Saturday, June 3, 2006

A lot of you have continued to ask about my Thies’ host family. They were a family that I became very close to and very grateful for having. It took awhile and a lot of consistent effort (which is the norm here) to get a hold of them, but I finally did. Today, I met up with one of my two sisters at my Thies’ family’s Dakar compound so to speak. It turns out that it is about a 20 minute walk from the hospital and I go to the Toubab grocery store at the intersection there about two or three times a week. I hung out there for about an hour after work, catching up on the family. My sister saw the national news the other day when I was on it, so she brought that up. Also, we talked about my hand and what I am going to cook when I head back to Thies. I saw some family members that I had met briefly before and met my grandmother (mom’s mom). One of my favorite people in the family is I think my second cousin. I don’t know her name, but that isn’t surprising because, I don’t know too many peoples names, they just don’t know that. She is about 3 years old and cute as a button, but is scared to death of me because I’m white and she is very shy but mischievous. She refuses to look at me in the eyes or acknowledge my presence, but I’m working on it…starting with bribes. Overall, it was a great visit, but they were disappointed that I wasn’t staying for lunch.

I intend to go back Monday evening and see my dad and other sister. As I have said in the past, my sisters go to University in Dakar and my dad comes to Dakar every week this semester to teach at one of the ecoles (elementary school). So, if everything goes according to plan, I will get to see a little more of my Thies family on Monday and stay for dinner. I am still hoping to make it up to Thies in the upcoming weeks.

Bathroom Break

Friday, June 2, 2006

While this may disturb a few of you who read this and make you question why you read this site, the purpose of this site is to provide as much detail to life in Senegal that I am willing and can give. I kind of wish I could and would tell everything, because it would be a lot more interesting.

For what I’m going to talk about is something that I thought hard about on whether I should write about or not. Some of you may think its disturbing, others may think it is disgusting, and some may think its funny...I think it is worth writing about.

This evening on my way home from the Atlantic/American Club, where I spent the afternoon by the pool, I was walking home from where I get off of the car rapide. It is probably a 400 – 500 yard walk to my house from there. I’m walking and I cut my foot on a piece of metal laying on the ground. I was wearing sandals and it somehow grazed and cut me. I wasn’t too concerned about getting cut, but walking through the human/animal urine infested sand to my house. If you gotta go here, you just go anywhere. So, I was alittle concerned about it when my toe started dripping with blood, but nothing I could do about it till I got home…not a big deal.

So, I continue walking and I see three kids (about 6 years old) playing on the side of the road. This isn’t unusual at all and to set the scene, this road is a major automobile and pedestrian route. One of them said “Ca va?” to me. Apparently I look French. It was towards the end of the day, so I really kinda wanted to be left alone and didn’t want to be pestered. Some of you may try to relate this to a long day of class or at the office, but it is not even comparable. Somehow, I managed a “Ca va bien. Nanga def? Allhumdellia.” Half way through this 15 second conversation with this kid, I notice his amigo pulling down his pants, popping a squat, and taking a crap on the side of the road. I’m just thinking “what the hell is going on here?” I didnt know if I should laugh or throw up, so I did both. We aren’t talking about being out in the bush where there aren’t bathrooms and hundreds of people right there. To somewhat compare it to the States, it would be like somebody going to the bathroom on the sidewalk of Lumpkin (Athens), Columbia (Chapel Hill), or Glen Loch Ct (Sugar Land) during rush hour. I made it home pretty quick after that.

The more I think about it, there is no reason to openly discuss it further than it just being an event in my day. The way of life here is completely different from what I’m used to and I’m still learning just the basics. Because of this, it makes it very difficult in formulating thoughts. For me, at times, I’ve had to step out of the American-minded box to develop atleast some understanding about things. So, I ask you, to generate your own thoughts about the things you read on this site, but keep an open-mind and don’t interpret things just from one angle, whether it be religious, political, western/American, etc, because you won’t understand life here. And, when you think you’ve figured it out, there are probably 10 other potentially right ways to look at it as well. Good luck.

The Highs and Lows

Friday, June 2, 2006

I don’t feel like I have had too many low points since I have been in Senegal, but for some reason, yesterday and this morning, I felt like I hit a wall. I don’t know if it had to do with all the drugs I’m on with my hand or just one of those days. I think for me, a lot of it stemmed from the surgery and I have just had a lot on my mind. I have tried to joke about breaking my hand (and I am glad I have a sense of humor about it), but it absolutely sucks having full-blown surgery away from family and friends (even other volunteers that I just met a few months ago) in a foreign country, with only partial knowledge about what was going on, and still feeling the importance of needing to learn my job and showing interest in it. Fortunatly, the Peace Corps medical staff has been more than I could ask for.

Overall, it was tough to bear, but there wasn’t and still isn’t much choice than to go forward…lets just hope I don’t hurt myself again. Yall kept my one good hand busy the past week or so with all the emails, but that is something to be thankful about. The owner at the cyber café down the street from my house and I have become pretty good friends…he even moves the mouse to the other side of the keyboard for me…nothing like helping the disabled.

While there are low points, there are also high points. These high points may just be small steps, but they help keep you sane. For me, tonight around 10:45, just after dinner, I was sitting in my little house typing up these posts and listening to some music, and one of my brothers knocked on the door. He wasn’t at dinner but had his plate in hand when he came to the door. I invited him in, cleaned off one of my chairs (haven’t really mastered cleaning up the room one handed) by dumping everything on the floor, and let him eat in my place. For the next hour and a half, we just shot the shit. It was nice to be able to just have a friendly, chill, detailed conversation with someone here. Don’t think we hadn’t talked prior to this, because we talk everyday, just not in this much detail. We talked about everything but mostly about the music I brought with me. I went through my computer playing stuff and it was really cool. Some of the stuff he had heard of and other stuff he was interested in. I will say that the typical Bobby Kerr – JLand Roadtrip playlist was not brought up.

Well, it is now 2 am Saturday morning and I’m sitting by my computer getting bit by mosquitoes. If I were in the States doing this at this moment, I might cry myself to sleep. Here in Senegal, it’s a little different…atleast for the time being. Tomorrow, I plan on going to the garden for just a bit and then I’m supposed to meet up with my host sister’s from Thies at 11:30…inchallah

I got nothing

Well apparently the link to the post surgery pictures didn.t work, so here it is again
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?Uc=7cwno9h.b80i9y9&Uy=-hl612g&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0&mode=fromshare&conn_speed=1

It has been an up and down week. I have had a few things to write about but havent gotten the chance to do it yet. I guess I will give you a brief tidbit about my day. I was on the overly packed bus home from the garden and a lady, probably in her 70s sat beside me . We had a great conversation and she was very suprised that I knew Wolof. So its nice to see hard work pay off. During all of this, it was hard not to notice that one of her boobs was hanging/sagging out. I didnt know how to say your boob is hangin out, so i didnt bring it up in the conversation. You never know what might smack you in the face.

Hope all is well and everyone has a great weekend.

I got nothing

Well apparently the link to the post surgery pictures didn.t work, so here it is again
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?Uc=7cwno9h.b80i9y9&Uy=-hl612g&Upost_signin=Slideshow.jsp%3Fmode%3Dfromshare&Ux=0&mode=fromshare&conn_speed=1

It has been an up and down week. I have had a few things to write about but havent gotten the chance to do it yet. I guess I will give you a brief tidbit about my day. I was on the overly packed bus home from the garden and a lady, probably in her 70s sat beside me . We had a great conversation and she was very suprised that I knew Wolof. So its nice to see hard work pay off. During all of this, it was hard not to notice that one of her boobs was hanging/sagging out. I didnt know how to say your boob is hangin out, so i didnt bring it up in the conversation. You never know what might smack you in the face.

Hope all is well and everyone has a great weekend.