Unbroken Links???

I am hoping that the links to my pictures from Christmas and Tabaski were fixed. Please check below and enjoy.

Another Christmas in Senegal

A lot of times, you never understand the magnitude of the traditions surrounding holidays that you have experienced much of your life, until change occurs. In my family, the main holiday was always Thanksgiving. From the time I was born till the Thanksgiving before I came to Senegal, my family and extended family spent it at our mountain house in north Georgia. For me, it was and is a place that I keep close to my heart, providing a sense of connection to my late grandparents, and also an aurora of calm, relaxation, and always good food. For me, here in Senegal, I knew that regardless of what I did for Thanksgiving, it could not compare to the memorable 24 others.

Christmas this year was something new for me. I was a bit apprehensive. Because my parents were in Senegal last Christmas, this year was the first year I didn't spend with my family. I have somewhat lost touch with American/typical holidays here, but Christmas is one you can't avoid, so I wanted to do something that felt right.

About two months ago, I decided I was going to spend Christmas at Aliou and Fatou Sane's house and grill cheeseburgers. I work with Aliou at the hospital and go over to there house typically a couple times a week. Also, there two girls are adorable.

On Christmas afternoon, another Volunteer and I went over to the Sane's to cook and feast. Amy and I were in charge of fixing the cheeseburgers, in addition to making coleslaw and Jello chocolate pudding. We also brought several boisson sucres (soft drinks). Fatou fixed French fries and surprised us with making a cake. Because at times, I believe in excess, my goal in all this was for someone to eat sooo much that they would throw up....you have to aim high you know.

Before we ate, the two girls opened gifts that my mom sent from the States. The generosity and enthusiasm of my parents back home to the excitement of the girls opening the gifts was absoluetely amazing.

By now, it was time to eat. All the sides were prepared and the last of the burgers were coming off the grill. Those, other than myself, sitting around the table, did not know what was about to hit them. Each burger was roughly .38 pounds of good quality beef with some diced onions and garlic accompanied by a touch of soy sauce and pepper mixed in, bringing the total weight to about .4 pounds of burger....they were some good ol' burgers that Senegal had yet to experience.

About halfway into the meal, one of the girls dipped her fork into the mustard (really spicey here) and it apparently went down the wrong pipe. As a result, the bathroom came o' calling and my goal was somewhat achieved.

About 45 minutes after sitting down, no one could move. We were absolutely stuffed. As a result, I talked to Aliou this morning at work and he said that his daughters did not move the rest of the day and night.

In the end, under the circumstances of being away from the States, I could not have anticipated a better way to spend my Christmas. It was probably one of the more memorable, touching, and rewarding ones that I've had.

Hope everyone on the opposite side of this post had a Merry Christmas celebrating old traditions or creating new ones and continues to have a safe holiday season.

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***Sorry, I tried to take more pictures of us being stuffed, but for some reason my camera stopped working.

Tabaski

The Islamic holiday of Eid al-Adha, the Feast of Sacrifice, or Tabaski as it is commonly called in much of West Africa occurred on Friday, December 21. It takes place annually on the 10th day of Dhul Hijja of the Islamic lunar calender, which happened to be December 21 this year. The holiday acts as a remembrance of Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his own son, Isaac under the order of Allah.

As a result, here in Senegal, Muslims who can afford to purchase sheep (can be other domestic animals meeting certain requirements), must do so and then sacrifice it as a symbol of Abraham's sacrifice. My family had four sheep, but because one was fairly small, we sacrificed three. According to the Quran, a large portion of the meat has to be given towards the poor and hungry people, often times to talibe (young children beggars), so they can all join in the feast. Some meat is given to other families and friends. The remaining meat is then cooked and eaten in a large feast that rivals an American Thanksgiving. Even though we gave a large portion of meat away, I could barely move for the next couple of days.

During the few days surrounding Tabaski, Muslims dress in their finest clothes, make-up, and yes, lots of perfume, all while enjoying the company of family and friends.

***WARNING***
Some of these pictures are not for the weak stomach.

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Also in the pictures, I have included a couple shots of the streets. They were taken on the day of Tabaski, in which no one is on the streets, so typically, they are full of chaos. Enjoy

HAPPY HOLIDAYS

From my home....

....to yours

I came across this article tonight and figured it was an important one to share. The University mentioned is the one right next to Fann Hospital where I work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ SENEGAL: Disabled students conquer daily challenges Photo: Serigne Adama Boye Students recently protested a shortage of housing for the physically handicapped at Dakar's Cheikh Anta Diop University DAKAR, 18 December 2007 (IRIN) - On the campus of Cheikh Anta Diop University in the Senegal capital Dakar, physically handicapped students can often be seen crawling unaided up concrete staircases or across dirty bathroom floors. With a few exceptions – such as the main library and a new amphitheatre – buildings on the sprawling, sandy campus have no handicap accessibility. "Users of hand-powered or motorised wheelchairs have to crawl to access certain buildings," the disabled students association said in a recent letter to the authorities. The association compiled a list of their grievances and proposed solutions and presented it to university officials at the beginning of the school year. Serigne Diop, a government official, says he cannot erase from his mind what he calls an "unbearable" image. "I saw a severely handicapped student trying to make it up a spiral staircase on crutches. I think she did not want to crawl so as not to get her clothes dirty," he said. "Other students passed by her without bothering to help at all." Given the difficulties of getting around, physically disabled students often arrive late to classes. That is for those who have on-campus lodging. For those who do not, commuting is a problem, as public transport vehicles have no accommodations for wheelchairs, the disabled students association says. Abandoning school In their dorm room, which also serves as the headquarters of the association, students lament two disabled female colleagues who had to abandon their studies for lack of on-campus housing. They were not the first and likely will not be the last, say handicapped students. "These two students, who had passed the university entrance exams, had to drop their academic ambitions and return to their home villages simply because they did not find housing on campus," Fulbert Manga of the association told IRIN. Disabled students remaining at the university say they face the same struggle daily – lack of housing, lack of access to most school buildings and public transport, inadequate financial assistance and difficulty getting decent jobs. Photo: Serigne Adama Boye The social services building is one of few university buildings that have ramps for wheelchair access While Senegal's constitution includes laws protecting the rights of disabled persons, and the country is a signatory to related international conventions, the daily reality is otherwise, students say. For the disabled, arriving at university means taking on a huge battle far beyond keeping up with studies. Inadequate The handicapped students association in November staged a protest at the university, calling for better housing. For some 250 disabled students, at least 162 beds should be made available according to quotas agreed to by university officials, but only 107 beds are available, fourth-year sociology student Insa Sané said. The director of housing, Makhtar Ndoye, says given the wider problem of housing at the university the housing department has had to fight to keep even 107 spaces for handicapped students. At Dakar's main university, only 5,136 beds are available with a student body of some 55,000. Bathrooms also pose a constant problem for disabled students. "In not one single men's room will you find a sit-down toilet, and that's the case even in some women's restrooms," Yague Touré, a second-year physics and chemistry student, told IRIN. "We are constantly protesting these inhumane conditions in the toilets." In many restrooms, inaccessible in a wheelchair, the floors are wet from faulty faucets. "Those of us who use wheelchairs are forced to crawl in dirty water." Housing official Ndoye says the university plans to install sit-down toilets and repair the faucets. Regional problem Djibril Sow, West Africa director of an African Union institute for the physically handicapped, said disabled people face such barriers in public places across the region. He said many more disabled students would likely be in university were conditions better. "Certainly if conditions were improved, the number of physically handicapped students in Dakar would be multiplied by 10 or 20. From Dakar to [the Burkina Faso capital] Ouagadougou, the disabled face the same kinds of problems." sab/np/nr

[This report does not necessarily reflect the views of the United Nations]

Garden Pets

At one of my gardens this morning, we came across a new friend...

Price of gas

While I haven't driven a car since March 2006 (not a fact I'm proud of) and don't know the exact price of gas in the States, I can assume from the news reports, it is continually going up.

Since being here in Senegal, I have been meaning to report the price of gas here to you. It is sold by the liter/litre. The current price of regular gas (premium gas is closer to 700 CFA per liter) is 606 CFA per liter. A liter is roughly a quarter of a gallon and at the current exchange rate, one US dollar equals 444 CFA. As a result, a gallon of regular gas here in Dakar is currently..........

$5.16 a gallon

The mouse is back....grrrrrrrrr. After nearly a year on the run, I saw a tail scurry across my roomhouse. I figured I might be able to catch it with bug spray, but that just didn't work (while my body may wake up at 5:45, my intellect is far slower getting out of bed) and this sucker bust have been taking steroids in the off-season because he is much faster.

The chase is on!

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I think this is the earliest post I have ever written...time to go to work. Hope you all are doing good and enjoying the cold weather. Just remember, taking showers outside with no hot water in cold temperatures (65 degrees is cold) is not something you want to experience before the sun comes up. Happy readings and enjoy the day at work.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING


GO DAWGS

Dakar Riots - November 21, 2007

Since I moved to Dakar, I have experienced many protests, ranging from students at the university to ones surrounding elections. I have seen riot police shoot off tear gas, but honestly, I have never felt threatened or that I should alter the course of my day. I want to live my life. Some may disagree with this, but we all have differing thresholds. For some reason, I like excitement and future stories to tell too much.

While I remember seeing a notice a few days ago at the Peace Corps office mentioning the protest, I don't know if I read it past line two. I did get a phone call today informing me of the protest, but once again, this is Dakar, and protest happen. So, what did I do after work today, I tried to go to the Peace Corps office.

About half way there, the allhum I was in came to a stop. Police were forcing everyone to turn around. By forcing vehicles to turn around, all passengers were getting out of them. About 10 seconds after getting out and already seeing flames and black smoke just up ahead, everyone started running in the opposite direction. I had no clue what was going on until I realized a huge police truck with about 5 guys on top in riot gear and tear gas launchers. Let me tell you, I've never run that fast in my life, unfortunately, nobody really knew why they were running or where they should run too....for the most part, I was amongst normal Dakar citizens. While this was going on, I looked out the corner of my eye and about 5 feet from me, a police officer tackled a guy. I don't know what he did, but he was getting a whipping.

Finally, the big truck turned around and headed back in the direction of the smoke. Within 2 minutes though, a smaller police truck comes down with guys in riot gear and tear gas. This time, I managed to find a vehicle to get into that was heading towards my house (I don't leave anywhere near this part of town). When I was seated, I managed to get my camera out and ready for our getaway. As we were leaving, I tried to take about 5 pictures, only to realized my camera wasn't on. Very quickly, I got just one and turned to the kid sitting beside me and told him I just wanted a picture of Senegal.



This site is not one for political discussion or for me to give my views on what is going on. Part of me being here and doing what I do, I have to limit the things I say, but I urge you all to read about it. My goal is to provide the readers of this site the needed information to make their own conclusions.

If one of your conclusions is, "Justin, what were you thinking" then I have already heard it.

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EMAIL - Bus strike and T.U. march (Sent 8:16 AM)

Dear Volunteers,

The Dakar Dem Dikk which is the principal public transportation service (Large Blue Buses) in Dakar is on strike today. Transportation will be a little disturbed for the day. Prices may increase a little with the other means of transportation such as taxis, car rapides and Ndiaga Ndiaye buses. Also, the trade union march which was reported to you last week begins today at 3 p.m here in the capital not far from the Peace Corps Dakar Office. The duration of the march is unknown. The marchers have been granted authorization to march and will begin their demonstration at the Medina Poste Office roundabout and advance towards the RTS radio station on Avenue Malick SY. Police will be present to maintain peace and order. Marches may also occur in other regions and departments of the country therefore stay informed and plan ahead your movements.

On another note, PCVs in the MATAM region are to know that there will be an unauthorized trade union march in the area today. Police may be present therefore your attention and vigilance is important. Use common sense and sound judgment and avoid large crowds and gatherings. Once again, PCVs who are to travel to Dakar today please do so before the march begins or wait until it concludes.

Thank you and enjoy your day.

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Senegal police fire tear gas at rioters in capital
21 Nov 2007 12:45:54 GMT
Source: Reuters

DAKAR, Nov 21 (Reuters) - Police fired tear gas at stone-throwing protesters who rampaged through the Senegalese capital Dakar on Wednesday, burning tyres and smashing car windows after authorities cleared away street vendors.

Several hundred rioters set fire to piles of rubbish, blocking streets and traffic and forcing businesses to close their shutters, witnesses said.

"The street sellers are throwing stones at police," said Mamadou Diallo, as he swept up debris outside a closed commercial centre. "The police replied by firing tear gas."

Plumes of black smoke rose above the city's business district, set on the western tip of Africa's coast, as riot police pursued youths down sidestreets choked with tear gas. The disturbances spread to neighbouring residential quarters, witnesses said.

Casualty figures were not immediately available.

Vans packed with riot police rushed towards the disturbances in the city centre. In one of them, police beat a detained protester with batons, a Reuters witness said.

The riots, the most serious to hit Senegal in years, erupted after President Abdoulaye Wade's government ordered police last week to move on street sellers from Dakar, where thousands of people earn a living peddling goods on the streets. (Reporting by Alistair Thomson; Writing by Daniel Flynn; Editing by Pascal Fletcher)

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EMAIL - PC office closed early (Sent 1:13 PM)

To All PCVs

The Dakar Peace Corps Office has closed until Friday morning. We have decided to close early today due to the manisfestations in and around the capital. There have been bus burnings and rock throwing exchanges with Police on the streets since this morning. A march by the Trade unions is also scheduled for today beginning at 3 p.m from Place de l'Obélix near Boulevard du General Charles de Gaulle also known as Centenaire. Therefore, if you are to come to the capital please avoid the main streets. We would suggest not coming to Dakar altogether until Friday morning.

Senegal tries to clear streets of beggars, hawkers

The Associated Press
Saturday, November 17, 2007

DAKAR, Senegal: Under presidential orders, Senegalese security forces have begun clearing the capital's clogged intersections of beggars, hawkers and walking salesmen.

The thousands of beggars and illegal vendors blocking traffic is "unacceptable," President Abdoulaye Wade said during an investment conference held in Dakar earlier in the week.

Wade argues that the country is losing millions of dollars every year because potential investors visiting Dakar are frightened by aggressive beggars and men hawking perfume knockoffs and phone cards to put more calling credit on mobiles.

"We cannot allow our city to turn into a place of squalor," Wade said.

Security forces descended on two of the capital's most congested markets — Marche Sandaga and Avenue Ponty. Soldiers, who arrived in trucks, and policemen on foot began the clearing operation after midnight Thursday.

Two days later on Saturday, only the roundabout leading into the two market streets appeared to be less congested than normal, but the walking salesmen and beggars, including barefoot children and handicapped adults in wheelchairs, had returned to the side streets.

Amadou Dieng, a beggar, had taken refuge on a small street not far from one of the markets that was being cleared.

"This sweep will do nothing other than increase our poverty. Where do they expect us to go if they are forbidding us to be in the streets?" asked Dieng.

The operation has thrown a spotlight on Senegal's global ambitions, which are at odds with the poverty of its population; more than half of working age adults are unemployed.

Dakar has been chosen to host a summit of Islamic countries next year, for which numerous high-rise buildings, five-star hotels and luxury bungalows are being built.

In an attempt to clean up its image, Senegal created a new ministry last year charged with public hygiene. Its mandate includes the fight against congestion.

Local aid groups estimate that there are between 50,000 and 100,000 unlicensed vendors and beggars in the capital, although no formal tally exists.

Many of the beggars are children who are sent out to seek money by their Islamic teachers. They are typically required to bring back around the equivalent of US$0.50 cents a day, or face a beating.

Pictures - November 14, 2007

I had gotten some requests to show some pictures of the new garden at the Psych Wing of Fann Hospital that I am working on. It is somewhat my baby right now and is the new challenge that I needed in my service. It is nothing like the other two projects I am involved in at Fann and much smaller scale, but letting me use the things I have learned, liked, and not liked, and hopefully implement a sustainable, creative, and beneficial project while teaching, working, and collaborating with Mboup, and employee at the Psych Wing.

Currently, it is still a work in progress and everyday, something new happens. In my eyes, it will always be a work in progress though. Long term, the idea of the garden will switch more to a therapeutic approach for patients. It is a low cost garden (currently $11 in the hole) with an emphasis on alternative, recycled containers (tires, water bottles, oil jugs, etc.). The soil is all composted material from one of my other gardens. One of the biggest challenges right now is sunlight....there is not as much as I would like, but like everything else, gotta take what you have and go with it.

If you have any suggestions, I'd love to hear them...just remember, ideas aren't always as easy to replicate here.

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Here are a couple pictures from the other garden and some of the guys I come across during my work day. While a simple photo, I really feel that the picture above with Lope is one of the pictures that I feel somewhat sums up my service here and making realize that I made the right decision.

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Circus Show

I remember having a conversation with my dad on the phone a few months ago, telling him how I was looking forward to living a life not in the spotlight. That may sound weird, because I am far from a red carpet celebrity. By standout, I mean from the Peace Corps sense, being the "Dakar Volunteer", being white in an overwhelmingly non-white society, speaking a traditional language (not national language), etc....I standout. Standing out isn't all that bad, so I somewhat rescind the comment I said to my dad, but one aspect I do not like about standing out is the "circus show" phenomenon.

You may or may not know what this is, but regardless, it is disrespect of difference. Early in my service, I don't remember if it bothered me if I was minding my own business and a Senegalese person would come up to me to try and be cute or funny and speak arrogant french to me in places not typically frequented by white people/expats/tourists/non-Senegalese/etc (public transpot, thieb(cheb) shacks to name a few). The thing is that it isn’t over at “Bonjour” but lasts for awhile typically. You always get a few that have to mess it up for everyone.

I feel like I've gone a long time since I have had this experience. I go to the same places for lunch now and take the same route to work now, not because I want to avoid confrontation, but because this is my home. And it is nice to be able to do that, say that, and feel at ease.

Tonight, was a different story. I was on the DDD Bus #5 coming home from downtown after meeting a couple of friends and I sat down in a seat and three guys started talking to me. You know it right when it happens, and I realized that I was the circus show and in for a long ride. After a year and 9 months of the circus tour, you get tired of it....i'm trying to figure a way compare it to something at home, and thing I can compare it to is the fat kid in school (who is minding his own business) who always got picked on even when he didn't know it.

All of these conversations are exactly the same. The all bring up Senegalese food and women. That is typically it. I'm looking for new material so I can spice up my act.

Yes, I did call it an act. Everyone has there own coping skills to situations. From my point of view, you can either be an asshole, shut down, or go with the flow. If you are an asshole, you are going to get eatin alive. If you shut down, you will be ridiculed right in your face. If you go with the flow, you can get annoyed but also have fun with it.

Tonight, I decided to take the "go with the flow approach." One of my biggest tactics in this approach is to never agree with the "opposition", so I didn't. I somewhat got them laughing when I decided to pull the wolof card out of the hat. Seeing a white guy on the last bus head out of town was a good opener, but hearing one speak wolof was apparently a new joke.

So the first thing they brought up was obviously Senegalese food (yawnnnnn). I love Senegalese food, but as a topic of conversation from hecklers just gets old. In their eyes, thiebudiene (rice and fish) is the only Senegalese dish. Sometimes I feel more cultured and Senegalese than them after just talking to them about food, primarily because there is more than one dish in Senegal. To their suprise, it is not my favorite dish.

The next topic is whether or not I am married or want a Senegalese wife. The answer to both is no. I am definitely not married, I can't fool myself on that one. Senegalese women are beautiful, and while I am not opposed, I currently just don't find that to be in my best interest right now. I can't say I'm looking for a wife at the moment....I'm looking at the next 7 months and then what and where I am going after here (I don't put that in my circus show though).

Well, one paragraph is not just enough for this topic though. While I say I do not have a Senegalese wife, they typically dig a bit deeper, and I will provide them with as much as I can. They typically ask if have I have a Senegalese girl. Of course, I say no, because that is the wrong answer. Going against anything I learned in 7th grade health class, I'm sure Sunday School when I was 8, and the sweet, innocent, angel status I felt I once had, I tell them that I have 4 or 5, spread across Senegal (NOT TRUE....its actually 8 during peak travel periods). This got them rolling.

By getting them rolling, I am referring not to the 3 guys who initially started talking to me, but the entire back portion of the bus. I hadn't had this happen to me before, but it was somewhat interesting.

Then, the guy across from me tells me he just came from the US yesterday. I take this for a grain of salt but ask "from where?". He says "the capital". In my mind, I know what the capital is (and was) of the US, but I ask him again where he is from. He says the same thing. So, I ask him where that is. While I did not see the news reports or notice any demolition when I was in Washington DC this past summer, APPARENTLY NEW YORK CITY IS THE NEW CAPITAL.....I heard it first on the Dakar Dem Dikk….who would have thought.

Finally, I was close enough to my stop, where I did not find it socially awkward to get up and head towards the exit. I somewhat felt that I should bow, but I held off, instead, I just passed around a hat to see if anyone would put change in it to show their appreciation for my performance.

It was nice to get off the bus and make it home, only so I could recreate it in my head, cry about it, and write this 5 minutes later. Getting back to it though, if I hadn't taken the give it back to them sarcastic approach, I would not have survived. I wish I could deal with curtious, nice, and respectful people 100% of the time, but, its only 95% of the time here. With those 5%, you can't handle the situation like you would in the States (atleast I can’t), in this culture, you can't settle for being a victim of your race, nationality, culture, beliefs, you gotta spit it back and play their game....it took me a long time, but tonight, I proved myself to be an equal, which is all I can want….welcome to the JLand circus, with Dakar shows every hour.

So, is this a good approach to handling a situation like this. I honestly don’t know. The thing I do know though is that the next time one of these people sees me, they typically know my name, know I’m a Peace Corps Volunteer, know what I do here, and have lost the arrogant attitude they once had.

At the end of the day, you have to be the standing ovation act in the circus show before you can sit in the audience.

Anybody want some sucre

Today, when I got home from work for lunch, I looked down at my niece, Fatou, and did a double take. While the pictures don't really give her justice, she was covered in sugar...hair, face, clothes, hands, feet. I don't know what she got into, but it made me want to be a kid again.

Senegal: Youssou Ndour in Atlanta On Sunday December 9, 2007

Freedom Newspaper (Raleigh, North Carolina)

11 November 2007
Posted to the web 12 November 2007

Following initial review and reactions by fans regarding the venue capacity and vicinity, organizers of the Youssou Ndour concert have confirmed a new venue known as The Dekalb Event Center a.ka Atlanta Live @ 3595 Clairmont Road, Atlanta Georgia 30319.

Senegambia Productions has done it again! ATLANTA will once again live up to it's name "HOTLANTA" in DECEMBER @ the Youssou Ndour show with a chance to win three prizes which includes two roundtrip tickets to anywhere in West Africa, $500 Cash and a Desktop computer

They have promised, and they are ready to deliver Youssou Ndour as one of it's two biggest Senegambian events of the year to Atlantans and it neighbors. So, if you have not yet reserved your tickets to Atlanta, now is the time do it.

When asked about its second event of the Year which is scheduled with Assane on New Year's Eve , Lekbi quietly replied- It is going to be an evening when Senegambia Productions will also present hot and rising Gambian artists under the management of Gambian Talents international, as well as music by renowned DJ King Solomon and DJ Sheikh Ndong.

Tickets for Youssou Ndour will go on sale @ TicketMaster on Wednesday, November 14, 2007.

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Work Summed Up Today in a Photograph

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas...

Everyday, I typically read three different stateside newspapers online. I don't know why at times, other than it has become part of my routine. Today, in the AJC, it already started talking about Christmas and good ol' St. Nick. It is funny for two reasons; first, I couldn't even tell you what month it is, second, the past few days I was in Tamba (8 - 13 hours southeast of Dakar) and was at a large boutique wanting to buy a Coke, when I came across a bag of Christmas cookies...expiration date: October 10, 2007. Guess they were trying to market the season's early shoppers.

MERRY CHRISTMAS

What are we doing...Where are we going

Sunday, November 4, 2007

As I have stated before, over the past 19 months, I have grown tremendously. I am still 6 foot, 2 inches, but I feel my mind and eyes are far older at times. The combination of this experience and my desire to take in what I see has done that. Often times, it has made my interpretations and views almost philosophical.

This post is one that is based off my thoughts for the past several months. In a sense, it is the foundation to what I believe in, especially regarding what I’m doing here. I’m not sure if I’ve written a post like this before, so hopefully you will be able to make it through the first if not second paragraph.

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Luck is a funny thing. At times, you may have good luck yet in other instances, you might have bad luck…common sense. Unfortunately, the thing with luck, good or bad, is that you can’t choose which way it is going to come or when you will be lucky.

The first instant in life in which one faces luck is at birth. You can not choose who your parents are (good or bad, successful or unsuccessful, rich or poor), where you are born (modern medical facility or unsanitary conditions), what country you will be born in (country with lots of social programs or country undergoing civil unrest), socioeconomic status (wealthy, influential family or poor, lowest caste family), etc. From that moment, you have the rest of your life in front of you. This initial luck often times provides the foundation for the rest of your life.

After living here in Senegal and having a lot of time to take things in, I’ve realized how lucky, privileged, and spoiled my life has been. Constantly, I have questioned whether or not this is right. The only answer of justification I can provide myself with is to understand that luck is something that just happens, but its what each of us do with luck, whether it be large or small, that sets us apart.

Everyone is different when it comes to this. Sometimes when difficult situations arise, people shut down, others believe in adaptation and hard work to prevail, or at least to give themselves a chance. The television show MacGyver was a fine example of this. MacGyver, the main character, always seemed to find himself in difficult, life threatening situations in which luck was not on his side. Using the little resources around him, he was always able to turn the tables and save the day.

It is troubling though to know that I do not always use my luck in positive ways, especially under my current conditions. Regardless of what statistics published by international organizations say, not all Senegalese are poor and impoverished, especially in Dakar, but it is widespread. Also, there is a large amount of economic disparity.

Sometimes, I look in the mirror and question what I am doing. I have so many opportunities and resources here. If I want a Coca-Cola, I can just buy it. If I want to go to a nice restaurant, I can’t do it everyday, but I can every once in awhile. If I want to go to happy hour on a Monday night to meet friends I can do that. Those reading this back in the western world might see no problems in this, often times, normal behavior. Just realize, from a figurative standpoint, it is always the morning after a night of drinking that you question why you did it, often times with a splitting headache. Literally, I mean that I wake up in the morning, get off the bus near work and see men, women, children, families, and crippled begging…it’s tough to comprehend and face myself in the mirror after seeing that every morning. As I mentioned earlier, it makes me question what I’m doing at times…is it right, is it wrong…I’ll never know. I think the reason for this unknowingness is because I truly believe that regardless of how hard I work, I can always do more

In a sense, the biggest question I ask my self is “how can I live my life the way I want, but be a servant to mankind at the same time?” Often times, I get torn up knowing that no matter what or how much I (or even others) do, it will never be enough. This is not a reason to give up, but a reason to continually strive to do more and realize how lucky we truly are.

A lot of the thoughts I have provided came through time. They would not have happened if I hadn’t been for one thing, which has also been the best thing about my experience. My situation here in Senegal has broken me down as a person and then raised me back up with more open eyes. A lot of times, it takes tragedy and cases of hardship to do this. The more I think about it, I don’t know too many people that get to experience this, in which I feel very lucky to feel like I have.

In the months leading up to joining the Peace Corps, a lot of people said the Peace Corps would change me and I’d come back a different person. I disagreed adamantly then and disagree now as well. I do not think that I have changed in the literal sense, but I have grown here as a person. I’m probably always going to be the tall, lanky guy I was before I left, but I hope that this growth provided by my experience here fuels my future and continues to keep my eyes open.

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If you have made it to the end, congratulations. As always, I am not going back through to proof read what I wrote, so if none of what I wrote makes sense, I apologize.

Hope you all had a great weekend and GO DAWGS!!!

Response to a few questions

One of my favorite aspects about being a Volunteer is being a resource to potentially future Volunteers. I always enjoy answering questions. By trying get a well-rounded sense of what Peace Corps life might be like, one can only benefit.

I felt I should post my response to an email I received asking about my experience here in Senegal. Here it is (I did have to modify my response a bit for this site)...

------------------------

The first time somebody suggested I look into the Peace Corps, I laughed at them. It was Spring 2003. I didn't really feel it was for me at all....ultra liberal, hippie, etc (all the stereotypes). It took two years for me to actually ponder the idea. At that point, I searched for answers, much like you are doing now. One thing I wanted was for someone to just tell me to do it, primarily because there are so many unknowns, a huge commitment, and also not the "typical" thing to do. Don't search for an answer to this question, it's not out there. The decision for this is yours and you have to make it for yourself. It is not easy, a lot of people quit, its not for everyone, and everybody's experience is different (some more than others). Also, if you make the leap, go into it with little expectations, you have to be flexible...the more expectations you have, the more disappointed you will be. Biggest recommendation to give you is to get your family on board with your decision if that is what you choose....they may not be your best friends but when the going gets tough, you can always talk to them....parents you can rely on 24/7 is crucial...you are going to probably cry and pull your hair out at times....its normal, but you need a good support network at home to clear your mind.

I'm sure I have more to say, but I'll get to your questions

Did you get the geographical area you specified or did they just place you in Senegal?

I think the application process has changed a bit since I signed up, but I was able to choose my region, or at least a preferential list...sub-Saharan Africa was my first choice. I didn't find out my country till months later...the application process is long and tedious. I know you said you wanted to go to Latin America, but my suggestion is use that as guidance, but just go anywhere. This is an experience that can take you somewhere you will probably never go again, and you are going to live it. Its not about where you go, its about what you make it out to be...every place has pros and cons about it.

Same with your job...is that what you wanted to do?

I sat down with the campus Peace Corps recruiter at UGA and picked my sector (urban agriculture). I didn't really know what it was or meant, but it seemed hands on, which is what I wanted.

Do you feel like the training really prepared you (or as much as it could) for going off and working on your own?

The technical (agriculture) training was ok. Americans just learn differently and sometimes the host country national trainers don't understand that...every country's program is different. The language aspect of training was the best you could have had anywhere in the world...it was amazing.

One thing about training though is that it is supposed to provide you with the foundation, it is up to you to continue to learn once you are at site and adapt things to your site.

Did you have the opportunity to say whether you prefered a city or a village?

My program is urban ag, so I knew I was going to an urban area, but I just didn't know what an urban area in Africa was. I didn't think I was going to be in Dakar (capital city) though (I think I'm one of only two or three first year volunteers to be placed in Dakar in PC/Senegal history). Dakar has about 2 million people while the others drop in size tremendously. The next largest city has about 280,000, and it has a small town feel. Health volunteers in Senegal are in villages. Business volunteers are typically in large towns. It really depends on the program as to where you are.

Looking back do you think you would make the same decision to join now that you know more?

Things aren't perfect, I don't want to kid you. There is a lot of BS. You gotta go with the flow at times and put your foot down at others...it just takes some time before you can do the later. With all that said, I think this is the best experiences ever. There is a difference in job and experience. You have to make this what you want it to be. If it weren't knowing that I need to get a real job, I'd stay on for a third year in a heart beat. I'm really gonna miss things here. It is nice when you can reach the point and say that, it feels like home now.

Do you ever have safety issues?

I live in the largest city in West Africa, so there are safety issues, mostly pickpocketing. I have had a few attempted pickpocketings, but no success. Now, I know the areas to go and not to go. My bike was stolen from my house within the first month or so, but then again a month later, our sheep was too. You just have to play heads up ball. There are always issues, but as long as you are aware, you should be good.

I read that you broke your hand or wrist but have you had any illnesses?

I think I have had a runny nose once, but I've been very healthy. The main reason for that is that I don't live in a village. A lot of people get mango worms in their skin, ameobas, diarehha, etc. The medical care Peace Corps has is pretty good though.

What is the health insurance provided like? How did they handle your broken bone?

Everything is taken care of, you don't pay for a thing. Every Peace Corps country office has a medical unit. If they can't handle it, they will find someone who can. Also, you get a mid-service check up, in which a dental cleaning is included. You will be given all your prescriptions, vaccinations, drugs, first aid stuff, for free too.

What do you think you will do when you get back (if you have an idea) and do you think the PC will help you attain a job in that field?

Somewhat keeping my options open, but looking into the international shipping/logistics sector. PC says they help you out and do if you go to Washington, but I prefer to do it on my own.

What is the support system like from PC for safety, health, work questions, etc?

It is all there. Whether it is by phone, text, email, most volunteers here are pretty well connected to the office. The majority of volunteers in senegal have phone coverage at their sites.
How often do you see other PCV's?

I see them just about everyday, which I don't like (especially early on), but I live in the capital, where the PC office is. Volunteers, for whatever reason, are typically in town. Now, its not a big deal, mostly because I've been able to adapt to things.

What is your work schedule like and are you doing it all on your own?

It is so difficult to say what my work schedule is, in a sense, because you are always on the job as a PC volunteer. But, I go to the hospital Monday thru Friday from about 7 am to Noon. At the hospital, I have my main project at the infectious diseases ward. This project was already started when I arrived and is in collaboration with a few groups. I am involved in a second garden at the HIV/AIDS outpatient center that was started by an NGO started by the guy I replaced. Information about that one can be found at www.developmentingardening.org. I am in the process of starting a new garden by myself at the psych ward of the hospital. This is my baby right now. It is not something I could have done right when I got here, but when I was approached to do it a few months ago, I couldn't turn it down.

With work though, my schedule is something that I dictated. Out of 150 volunteers in Senegal, I have the most structured work schedule. Part of that is me, the other part is because you can't really have structure in a village. I really wanted to make what I was doing at the hospital a job and hold myself to high standards.

Also, I teach english twice a week from about 8 to 10, but dinner is included in that time too.

Some countries have more structure, but realize that a developing world work environment is far different from a first world work environment...a lot of people going into PC don't think about this. Part of this isn't just work but about the experience too. This is a very non-traditional job in a lot of places.

Overall take on your experience? (I'm guessing from your blog you're loving it)

I love it. My experience in Senegal is far different from all the other Volunteers here. Living in Dakar is interesting and my job set up is different. It isn't everyday that Laura Bush, Raul (soccer player), white house staff, Peace Corps country directors, and diplomatic visits come to your site. Being different has been one of the hardest things for me to handle here...I wish I could just be under the radar. It took awhile to get used to everything and I still don't like big visits, I'm not here for that, but its the way it is and can be important for a cause.

In my 19 months here, I'm the happiest I have been, and I see it continuing till the end. I'm gonna miss this experience tremendously, and value it highly. Just remember, its what you make out of it.

Don't hesitate to ask more questions. Feel free anytime.

Pictures - Ile de Madeline

I went back to one of my favorite places in Senegal today, Ile de Madeline, off the Dakar coast with some friends. Here are the pictures from the visit. It was a perfect day.....sunny, hot, and nice water.

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=1IZsnLNo4YvLA&notag=1

Uncle Eddie...

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

While people often times take it for granted and don’t realize it, life in the United States is pretty good. Things are typically quick, simple, and efficient. Also, there is a heavy emphasis on customer service. It’s typically the merchant that will go out of their way to make the customer happy and not the other way around.

Things in Senegal can be and typically are, quite different. As I have come to find out over the past 19 months (wow time is flying by) this difference isn’t necessarily a good or bad thing. While I prefer quick, simple, and efficient actions, the opposite can be fun once you get used to it.

I think I’ve mentioned it before about how difficult it is to break large bills (above $4) usually. In order to break certain bills, I often have to go to certain places that I know will do it and then spend half of it buying something so I don’t feel guilty. If you go to a neighborhood boutique and you don’t have change, well, you better go find some, or you aren’t going to be bringing home that new tube of toothpaste that you need. Sometimes, you have to go back to a boutique to get your change. I don’t know if this is common for everybody or just me, since being white, I typically stand out from the majority of boutiques customer base.

This past weekend, one of the coolest things happened. I was out in a part of town by the American Club and realized that I really needed to buy some laundry detergent and a razor. As a result, I stopped by a boutique that I hadn’t been to before and started talking to the owner. I paid him a 5,000 CFA bill ($10) with about 4,000 CFA in change coming back to me. The guy goes through his drawer for about a minute looking for change and then pulls an Uncle Eddie from the National Lampoon Family Vacation films and starts going through coffee cans looking for money. Finally, he gave me my 5,000 CFA back, plus 150 CFA that I would have been given in change and told to come back later to pay.

The minute I turned to walk away, it struck me that I had just made a profit in this boutique trip. Not only did I still have my 5,000 CFA, but also 150 CFA, 6 packs of detergent, and a razor. For some reason, I found this business deal quite amazing….but I guess my middle name is “trust”.

The next day, I went back and handed the boutique owner the 1,000 CFA that I owned him. I didn’t even have to get my change because he gave it to me the day before…genius.

Come a few months, I sure am going to miss things like this.

Pictures - Korite

Saturday, October 13, 2007

Here are pictures taken on Korite. It is the last day of Ramadan here in Senegal, which it is celebrated with a feast.

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=1IZsnLNo4Yu8A&notag=1

How to Give - Email from Friends of Senegal and The Gambia

Copy of an email sent out by Friends of Senegal and The Gambia. It references on how to make a donation to the N'Dongo Family.

Dear Friends,

It is with regret that I inform you of the loss of a dear friend to Senegal PCVs and RPCVs from the last 4 years. Lamine N'Dongo, Safety and Security Officer, died in a car accident on Sunday, driving the PC car near Bakel. The driver was on the passenger sit and is currently in the hospital, injured but stable.

Lamine was a friend to those who knew him. He took care of each of us like we were family. He knew everyone in the police force throughout the country and God forbid anyone messed with us, he would take care of it tactfully and quickly. He believed in Peace Corps and was proud to be part of its mission. He leaves behind a wife and four children, all girls.

We would like to make a collection for his family on behalf of the Friends of Senegal and The Gambia and the RPCV community at large. FOSG will match any funds collected. Some RPCVs already started collecting funds and I've invited them to join our collection so we could match the total amount. Any small contribution would be of great help to them.

Please send a check or money order to Dan Theisen to:

Pay to the order of Friends of Senegal and The Gambia
Memo: Lamine N'Dongo's Family Fund

Daniel Theisen
428 Bowleys Quaters Road
Baltimore, Md 21220


We will wait at least 2 weeks to give people time to send their checks to Baltimore for Dan to process them. If you have any questions or comments, do not hesitate to contact me through the FOSG list or directly to marielsie.avila@gmail.com.

Thank you,
--

A note from the PC/Senegal Country Director

Dear Peace Corps Senegal Family:

Perhaps sometimes I overuse the term family in referring to our relations and work together, but never have I felt so strongly that family is the right word to use for Peace Corps Senegal Volunteers, Trainees and Staff this week. We have all pulled together in the wake of the devastating news of the death of our friend and colleague Lamine N'Dongo. I was touched by the efforts of Volunteers from around the country to express their sympathy with Lamine's family. And I know that his family was touched deeply by the sentiments we expressed in the visits of two large delegations from our Peace Corps Senegal family Monday night and last night.

I want to thank everyone who was part of dealing with this terrible tragedy in the most humane way we could manage. From those who informed the family to those who were at the site of the accident and prepared and transported Lamine's body, to everyone who visited Lamine's family, and those who called and wrote: thank you. Thank you also to the emergency workers in Tambacounda who assisted effectively and with compassion.

Looking forward, we will be putting in place a fund for the care and schooling of Lamine's children and we will have a ceremony at the new Peace Corps building in Lamine's honor. As we are determining the best means to provide for Lamine's children, anyone who wishes can make a donation, which Molly will keep until we open an account. Returned Volunteers in the U.S. are now organizing a fund, as well, and we are coordinating with them.

Lamine was a brave, kind and tireless soul. He was a friend to us all and dedicated to the safety of all Peace Corps Volunteers. We shall miss him deeply.

Word of Lamine's passing stunned Peace Corps friends from around the world. I wanted to share with you some of those notes that I have received.

-Chris

Mamadou Lamine Ndongo

The past two days have been tragic for the Peace Corps/Senegal family with the loss of Safety and Security Coordinator Mamadou Lamine Ndongo, a man who who only knew how to care for those around him. I will try and write more later, but currently we are in a state of mourning and grief.

Pictures - Urban Ag Summit (Kolda)

Between Thursday, October 4 and Saturday, October 6 in Kolda, an urban center in the south of Senegal, the Urban Agriculture sector of Peace Corps/Senegal held a conference. Here are pictures from it.

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=1IZsnLNo4Yu0g&emid=sharshar&linkid=link3

Pictures

Sorry for the delay in getting pictures out. I have run into some problems accessing Kodak Gallery, so I have temporarily switched to Shutterfly.

Camp Access - Lycee Thioroye - August 6 - 10, 2007
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=1IZsnLNo4YueA

Party - Roaring 20s - Mbour - August 25, 2007
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=1IZsnLNo4Yulg

Fieldtrip - Parc Hann Zoo - September 2, 2007
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=1IZsnLNo4YuWg

Football (Burkina Faso/Senegal) - Stade L.S.S. - September 8, 2007
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=1IZsnLNo4YutA

Who would have thought....

Two years ago from this time, I received my invitation packet for Peace Corps. I still remember where I was when I made the phone call to accept this invitation to Senegal...Life University in Marrietta, Ga doing Red Cross Katrina work. At that time, I figured that I was heading into some remote African village where I would be wearing only a loin cloth for two years talking in clicks....well, that never happened.

One thing I was not expecting was to have wireless internet hooked up in my room. Finally, after a couple of months figuring it out, bringing a router from the US, going through two modems, and two wireless cards, I am now connected to the information superhighway from my roomhouse.

It is somewhat amazing how connected on can be here. Cell phones are everywhere (whether people have credit, even myself, to make a call, is another story). Cyber cafe's are fairly cheap and growing to the far edges of Senegal. Western music has infiltrated the soil here. It is kinda weird, but sometimes I feel more connected to the US and friends here, than I do when I am back home.

The reasons for the internet investment are twofold: 1.) To make communication back home easier and theoretically cheaper. In order to call Senegal, it is expensive from the States. With the marvels of the internet and skype, I can now call the States for about 2 cents a minute...even with my small pittance, I think I can afford it. 2.) I am hoping that it will make my upcoming job search a bit easier. Being able to do work from home versus an internet cafe is much easier. Hopefully it pays off.

With that being said, while I probably won't be signed on all the time due to erratic power surges and outages, I can be reached on Skype at: j.land

Off with the left

Monday, September 17, 2007

The left hand here in Senegal is what I consider the “no, no hand”. When it comes to contact with another person, such as a handshake, you just aren’t supposed to use it. The major reason for this is because it acts as a natural toilet paper...I can only imagine if this craze caught on in the U.S..

With that all being said, there is one instance that left hand usage is deemed acceptable in the constraints of personal contact. If an individual is leaving for a long period of time, the left handed handshake is done. It is somewhat a sign of endearment, wishing luck on the long journey.

This handshake is not something that happens often and when it does happen, you feel the power and meaning behind it. In my service here, I’ve done it once before, and it was with another Volunteer. Last night at the airport, the left handed handshakes came out for my brother leaving for Morocco. That moment was one of the more powerful ones that I’ve experienced here. Saying goodbye is never easy, especially with people you are close too, but something about this handshake, really gave me that sense of belonging here and realizing how valuable this experience is.

Unitl Next Time...

Monday, September 17, 2007

When you talk to many young Senegalese here in Dakar about their future, many give you a similar response, stating a desire to get out. There reason for this isn’t necessarily because they do not like Senegal, but because of greater opportunities (university, job, etc.) elsewhere, whether it be in France, Spain, U.S., or somewhere else.

I feel that most Americans truly do not understand how lucky we are, just because we are American and the opportunities that exist. Sure, our system may not be perfect; cheaper and universal healthcare, greater equality within public education system, stronger environmental laws, lower taxes, and cheaper toothpaste all existing elsewhere throughout the globe….but our system is not bad.

The percentage of those who wish to get out of Senegal for opportunities that actually do is slim. Illegal immigration to Europe (primarily Spain) is a constant topic in the papers. The cost is high for legal immigration and depending on the destination, can be difficult.

For those that do make it out, they are often times still a valuable resource to Senegal. Western Union and Money Gram have a good business here with money wired back to families. While $100 could be a weekend on the town in the States, it can potentially go a long way here. This transfer of funds can create a better opportunity (medical, educational, emotional, etc.) for those here in Senegal. Some leave Senegal for educational purposes and return for the betterment of Senegal (doesn’t mean that a brain drain is not occurring).

My living arrangement here in Dakar is quite unique. I have a brother who has lived in France for the past 10 to 15 years working. One of my sisters was in France for about a year. Now, as of early this morning, one of my other brothers, left for Morocco to attend University.

He had attended university here in Dakar, but it didn’t provide him with the opportunities and challenges he needed. As a result, he boarded a plane and left for Morocco for 3 years, with a small suitcase, half full backpack, and a briefcase.

Through the past few weeks when he found out he was leaving and now, I’ve tried to compare his leaving to my coming to Senegal. For about 6 months prior to leaving for Senegal, I knew I was coming to this country and about a year and a half before, I was 100% about doing Peace Corps. My brother, within about 2 or 3 weeks, found out he was leaving for Morocco. My farewell tour alone took longer than that. It’s amazing how quick of a turnover he had.

Second, one of the biggest concerns before flying over here was the baggage limit. I can’t even tell you the number of times my bags were repacked and reweighed to meet the requirements. I ended up bringing 3 large bags and a backpack I think, all filled with who knows what now. It’s hard for me to even envision only being able to bring just a small suitcase, backpack, and computer bag for 2 years, let alone three. I think this goes to either my desire for personal possessions, possibly a stereotypical American thing, to my brother’s ability to pick up and go.

Finally, my biggest amazement, was asking my brother when he would be back, thinking I would see him before I left Peace Corps middle of next year and he said he wouldn’t be back. I was amazed, just in the ability to be able to do that. The number of volunteers that return home for vacation is great. I really have no clue if I could go two or three years without going home. It was interesting to hear his friends ask him when he’d be home and he said “3 years” like it wasn’t a big deal. And just to think that a tear or two was shed with my leaving made me realize that some of my friends and I need to toughen up.

I still believe one of the most interesting things about the Peace Corps experience is seeing the differences and similarities in culture, religion, handling of situations (this one being one of them), etc. Often times, things may seen foreign and strange, sometimes disagreeing with them. But in the end, what it comes down to for me is recognizing and understanding (often times through experience) these differences with an open-mind, and realizing that we all bring an importance to the global table.

Goodluck Khalilou

Dryer Sheets

Saturday, September 15, 2007

My set up here in Peace Corps/Senegal is a unique one when you compare it to that of 93% of other Volunteers in this country. I have had the rare opportunity of spending my entire service in the capital city, Dakar. In Peace Corps/Senegal history this is uncommon. A lot of Volunteers live in villages (some remote and some close to small towns), while others live in small towns and cities…but Dakar is the crown jewel. Some say it offers the best and worst of Senegal. While there are disadvantages about living here, there are also perks. I typically don’t go hungry, usually busy with work, can catch up on news back home at a click of a mouse button, relax at the pool, can use a washing machine to clean my clothes, and can grab a beer with friends.

I don’t remember who it was but in a conversation with another Volunteer a few days ago, they pretty much summed it up like this:

“While the majority of Volunteers ask for drink mixes and food in their care packages, Justin asks for dryer sheets.”

What can I say, I like my clothes smelling fresh and little static.

Pictures

For some reason, Kodak Gallery has not been working for me over here in Senegal for the past month, as a result, I have been able to post several batches of pictures, ranging from another field trip to the zoo, football match, and the summer camp I worked at. Hopefully, I can remedy this problem sooner than later.

Also, I am hoping to get a few posts up later this week.

Hope all is well with everyone...

JLand

BUT!!!!!!!!!!!

Monday, September 10, 2007

Football here in Senegal, as well as many other African nations, is everything. Day and night, kids can be found in nearly all open spaces, whether it is a large field or small alley way, kicking around makeshift footballs. Adults are often found crowded around TVs or radios when international or professional matches are broadcast.


When Senegalese players make it professionally in Europe, the Senegalese people watch. More importantly, when the best of the best in Senegalese football come together and represent Senegal in international matches, life comes to a standstill for 80 minutes. These matches are few and far between, but when they do occur, especially on home turf, you know about it.

This past Saturday, Senegal played Burkina Faso at Stade Leopold Senghor in the last qualifying round leading up to the 2008 Coupe d’Afrique des Nations (CAN) in Accra, Ghana. For the past month and a half, I had this match on my calendar, with the intention of going. Other than a match or two in high school and college, I haven’t watched too many games in person.


Stopping by the stadium on Friday afternoon, I bought 11 tickets for myself and some friends. The tickets consisted of 1,000 FCFA ($2), 2,000 FCFA ($4), and 5,000 FCFA ($10). Not knowing too much about the stadium seating, I settled in buying the 2,000 FCFA tickets, and as we found out on Saturday, the seats were pretty good.

After going to UGA for 4 years, the only way I know how to get ready for a football game, whether it be American football or football/soccer, is to tailgate. For the few hours leading up to the game, some of the people I was going to the game with and I decided to tailgate a bit at the Peace Corps house. We grilled up some T-bone steaks to go with mashed potatoes, salad, and Jello. While I would have rather been tailgating for a Dawgs game, I couldn’t complain about this tailgate (not to ruin the outcome of this post, but Senegal managed to win on Saturday).

About an hour before the game, we headed to the stadium. The place was an absolute zoo. People were everywhere. Lines of people came out of every orifice of the stadium (some of these lines were over 100 yards long). We had no clue what to do or where to enter, so we just got in what we thought was the fastest moving line.

We managed to make the right choice and quickly entered the stadium grounds. Our tickets allowed us to sit in one of 4 sections in the stadium, so we found section 21 and entered. When sections fill up, doors to the section are locked and you can’t enter or exit, primarily to prevent any sort of violence. Also, large fences separate sections from each other.


The match had already begun. It was an awesome atmosphere. Bands were playing in a few different sections. The wave was being done. Vendors were selling soft drinks, bissap juice, and peanuts (unfortunately no stadium nachos or Outback chili cheese fries this weekend).

While the match was somewhat even in the beginning, Senegal started to dominate and never let up. They ended up winning the match 5 to 1 and securing a spot in the CAN 2008. I guess its off to Ghana…

The 9th Natural Wonder of the World: Lac Patte D'Oie

Sunday, September 9, 2007

When you look at a map of Dakar, it does not have Patte D’Oie Lake on it. The primary reason for this is because it does not exist, except when it rains. It doesn’t matter if it sprinkles or pours; Lac Patte D’Oie quickly develops and becomes one of the larger water masses in Senegal.

This morning, I had been at the Peace Corps regional house (about 1.5 miles from my house) doing laundry, when the sky started to turn dark. I was somewhat taking my time but was trying to beat the looming raining, until it beat me, much like Michigan has been getting beat. Deciding to wait it out a bit, I sat around for about 45 minutes when it looked like the rain was thinning out.

Heading out the door and into sprinkling, I felt like I was in the clear. Because of the weather and the fact I had a huge duffel bag full of clean clothes in it, I decided that my safest and easiest bet would be to take a taxi.

Very quickly, I learned first hand that I left the confines of a roof too soon. The sprinkling got heavier and after dodging and do a few spin moves around large puddles, turning back was not a possibility. Standing up under a tree I flagged down a taxi. After telling the cab where I lived, he quickly and very adamantly refused to drive there. I told him I would pay him a good price and his response was pressing the gas pedal. After the first taxi, I figured my neighborhood was probably a mess. I hailed another taxi and this guy was unwilling at first but with some charm, I was able to convince him to drive a mile and a half. His only reason for not wanting to drive was because his windshield wipers did not work, but as I told him, nobody needs windshield wipers in a downpour (I later regret saying that).

We started driving the direction of my neighborhood and very quickly I saw that a lot of water was on the ground. At this point, I also realized the importance of windshield wipers and the fact that this cab’s roof had an obvious leaking problem. Half way home, we came to a point where cars were turning around and nothing was coming from the opposite direction…not a good sign. We weren’t even in a place that typically flooded badly. We ended up taking a 20 minute detour through side streets. These side streets are typically very narrow with lots of cars/buses/horse carts doing the same thing we were doing…seeing out the front windshield probably would have made things a bit safer, but fortunately I am alive to tell you my story. We came close to getting in just a few head on collisions.

Finally, we reached the bridge that takes you into flood zone and my neighborhood. As we crested the top of the bridge, I saw the 9^th natural wonder of the world, Lac Patte D’Oie. Water was everywhere. While it hasn’t rained too much this year, it was the most amount of flooding I’d seen in the past two years here. Cars were turning around. There was one Land Cruiser that took the road and the water went halfway up its door and waves were being sent everywhere. Because I didn’t know if I should go get my beach towel, tanning oil, and speedo or shout out to the guy and tell him he needed to slow down because he was in a “no wake zone”, I just decided to take a few pictures.

I was facing somewhat of a dilemma when we got to the roundabout just at the bottom of the bridge and when the flooding began. I had no clue where or even how to get out of the cab. I felt like I found a decent place to get out with the least amount of water on the ground. Within about 4 seconds, my shoes were soaked. Nearly 3 seconds later, after having to jump over some water, I about slipped and fell into a large puddle. For some reason, it didn’t occur to me that when you jump, you shouldn’t jump onto slick muck. Fortunately, I saved myself by grabbing onto a street sign.

I figure that if this had been during the work week I probably would not have enjoyed this experience, but because it happened today, I thought it was one of the coolest things. So if you are ever in Dakar and it rains, come see Lac Patte D’Oie. I highly recommend bringing snorkeling gear.